As we left Chuquicamata
we could feel the world changing
or was it us?
The deeper we go in the Andes
the more indigenous people we encounter,
who are homeless in their own land.
We finally entered Per¨², thanks to a half-blind truckernamed F¨¦lix.
And guess what? Alberto turned thirty,
but no in Venezuela as he had planned.
We were so tired, Mom, we couldn't celebrate.
This is not humanly possible.
We finally arrived in Cuzco, "the heart of America".
Our first day in the city we met Don N¨¦stor,
an old soul, Mom, and our official guide.
Sir, I wonder, which of these walls is Incan?
This one here is Incan and that one is Spanish. As a joke we say
this wall was made by the Inca, and that wall was made by the In-capables. That's what we call the Spanish.
During the Inca period, Cuzco was the capital.
When the Spanish came they started to trash it all,
- and made Lima the capital. - Lima?
- This is belongs to Jesus Christ Inc. - Are they still in business?
She says she never went to school
because she was always with the livestock,
and that's why she doesn't speak Spanish, only Quechua.
When i was little there was enough, at least I think so,
There was enough money to afford everything.
But now I think there is little money, there is no work.
And this is all affecting us, more and more.
From the time I was little I've worked with handicrafts, and,
that's why I'm not doing too bad,
not too good, just okay.
With both hands, N¨¦stor.
Thank you.
I was working for a time... on some land.
And the landlord... kicked me off the land.
I was doing my work and he threw me out.
How'd he throw you out?
- Did he bring the police? - Yes, he brought the police.
Because he's rich, he's got lots of money.
He wants me to vacate his land, to get out.
Once it was already productive.
Yes, it was producing wheat, corn, potato... all that.
And he kept most of it.
So, I can't live in the past. I have to move on... work,
find the money to educate my kids...
- How many kids do you have? - I've got five.
Have you gotten organized with other farm workers... in order to fight back?
Yes. We are organized, we help each other,
work our land,
we help each other. Very unified.
Ready for the photo, Fuser?
- That's it, that's it... - This one's for posterity.
The Incas knew astronomy, brain surgery,
mathematics among other things,
but the Spanish invaders had gunpowder.
What would America look like today if things had been different?
Fuser, here's my idea; I'll marry an Inca descendant.
We'll start an indigenous party under these conditions:
we'd encourage the people to vote,
reactivate Tupac Amaru's revolution, the Indo-American revolution, Fuser.
How's that sound?
A revolution without guns? It would never work, Mial.
How is it possible to feel nostalgia for a world I never knew?
How can a civilization that built this...
be destroyed to build...
this...?
- This isn't it. - No?
Wrong street?
Mercaderes 52. Let's ask.
- Mercaderes Street? - Mercaderes?
Straight ahead for two blocks, turn right and go another six, seven blocks.
- This has got to be Mercaderes. - That one is too.
- Is this Mercaderes Street? - Yes.
- And that one? - Yes.
We have to count backwards.
- Fuser? - Backwards is 2, 4,...
Can I help you?
This is Mari¨¢tegui's book. And you must also read C¨¦sar Vallejo
The best thing about Lima was Dr. Hugo Pesce,
Director of Per¨²'s leper treatment program,
who Alberto contacted before we started our journey.
He gave us clothes, food, money and ideas.
Mari¨¢tegui speaks of the revolutionary potential
of the natives and farm workers of Latin America.
He says the problem of the Indian is the problem of the land,
and that the revolution should not be an imitation.
It should be original and indigenous.
"We are too few to be diveded," he said, everything unites us...
nothing separates us.
Most of the patients are over here.
Pesce got us a couple of beds in the Guia Hospital
where patients suffering from the early stages of leprosy are treated.
The most critical cases are sent to the San Pablo Leper Colony, in the Amazon.
Zoraida, here's Alberto and Ernesto.
I think we know each other pretty well now...
Let me tell you something,
I look at you, Ernesto, and you, Alberto...
and I see great idealism and many doubts.
That's why I'm glad you're going to San Pablo.
I think you will find something important there. For each of you.
Thank you, Doctor.
If you'll excuse me, I will show you something.
Another surprise? So many surprises...
- What's he getting, squirt? - A book.
- A book... - You have quite an appetite, Lito.
This is the great love of my life,
after my wife, of course.
It's my novel. "Latitudes of Silence"
I hope you'll do me the honor of reading it.
- Of course. - Of course, Doctor. The honor is ours.
You can give me your opinion in Ucayali.
- Of course. May I? - Of course. Who dares go first?
Both of us.
He reads much faster than me. He's really a faster reader.
Well, boys, that's the ship, "La Cenepa".
You'll be in San Pablo in 5 days.
Thank you for your hospitality, for the tickets, for the clothes.
Thank you for everything, it's been an honor.
Don't mention it.
One more thing, haven't you forgotten something?
You haven't said anything about my novel.
- Ah, the novel... - You've read it?
- Of course. - And?
What can I say? I can say, without exaggeration, that no one...
can tell a story like you do.
It took me a lot of work. Ernesto, your opinion?
He loved it.
If he loved it, I'd like to hear him tell me.
Look, Doctor, I think you book is a bit trite,
There are too many chich¨¦s, and I...
Well, that's not so bad...
No... the writing is bascally - bad.
Basically unreadable.
It's a worthy attempt, Doctor, but I think you should stick to what you know best.
I'm sorry, Maestro, you asked my opinion and that's it.
Damn you, boy... Nobody's been this honest with me.
You're the only one.
Well, I won't keep you any longer.
So long, we're forever grateful. Thank you.
Take care!
Have you seen... a bag that was just there?
- A small brown one. - I'll bring it over if I do.
- What's wrong with him? - Call for help!
The pillow!
Hand me the pillow!
Take it easy, Fuser.
Adrenaline on the way...
Okay, Fuser. It's over...
Fuser, Fuser, quiet. It's all over now.
Miss...
I want to thank you for helping out my friend.
No problem. He was in really bad shape.
- He scared me a lot. - Me too.
Thank you very much, Miss.
You know, a little while ago there was a bufeo out there.
They're river dolphins but we call them bufeos.
- Have you ever seen one? - Never. I've heard of them, but I've never seen one.
I'm going to tell you a secret.
The bufeo's sex organs are like that of a woman's...
and the Indians use them to... comfort themselves.
But there's a little problem, as soon as they're done,
they have to kill the animal...
because they suffer contractions that won't let them loose.
- Miss, if I may, can I ask you a question? - Shoot.
What brings you to these inhospitable waters?
I work on the boat. I come and go between Pucallpa and Leticia.
I'm from Pucallpa.
- Pucallpan. - Pucallpian.
- Pucallpian, got it. - Have you been there?
Yes, it's full of beautiful women, but you are the lovelist.
- Thank you. - You're welcome. And, how do you pay for your passage?
I give the captain part of my earnings.
And... how do you earn your earnings, Miss?
Let's just say... if we go to your cabin, I can show you.
The name's Luz, in case you want to know who you're doing business with.
My little Luz, for a night with you I'd pay enough gold to equal the Aconcagua.
But, honey, I've run out of cash.
Well, my friend, in that case you'll have to excuse me.
- Hey... - I've gotta go earn a living.
You're not going to leave me like this, are you?
- I need the fifteen dollars, Fuser. - What?
Her name is Luz. She told me a story of a fish the Indians fuck and kissed me,
I'm so horny I could explode.
I spent them.
No, Fuser. Don't bust my balls. We crossed a desert together,
we starved, froze, had accidents...
- My needs come before Chichina's bathing suit. - I don't have them.
I gave them to the mining couple.
Woo her.
Fuck you, Fuser.
The house wins, gentlemen.
Mr. Lloyds is leaving our table.
One sol.
Sir, this is for men, not school children.
I didn't know that in Per¨² a man's balls are measured in soles.
Very well. Let's play.
Cards, sirs. Open.
- Card? - One.
- Sir? - No.
- Sir? - One.
I'll stay put.
Gentlemen, the house pays twenty-one.
Sir, seventeen...
I'm sorry, gentlemen.
- Young man? - Pay up. Twenty-one.
How much did you bet?
One sol. There we go, the first one.
- Well, gentlemen, let's continue. Place your bets. - Two soles.
Gentlemen, don't fall asleep on me, let's see those bets.
- Thirty soles. - Ten soles.
Gentlemen, once again! Blackjack!
- How much do I owe you? - Thirty soles.
See you later. Thank you. I'll be retiring.
I think we know who's got the biggest balls at this table.
Excuse me, gentlemen.
Son-of-a-bitch! Hey, now that we're millionaires, let's go eat.
Precisely, check out that morsel right there.
- What a lucky night. - Ernesto... This is Luz, which means "light."
- Luz? - At your service.
"Electrifying light that dazzles my dreams. Get ready, you've no clue what's coming to you."
- Neruda? - Granado.
- Are you Doctor Bresciani? - How are you, boys?
- Good trip? - Long, but good.
- Alberto, Ernesto? - No, reverse it.
- A pleasure, I'm Bresciani. - The pleasure is ours, Doctor.
Dr. Pesce has spoken enthusiastically of you so, welcome to San Pablo.
Oh, by the way, I have a letter from him. Do you want it now?
No, Later on.
Well, since we're already here, I can tell you about the colony.
The Amazon cuts the colony in half.
The patients live on the South side,
and thes taff, doctors and nurses are here on the North...
as well as a group of nuns who do things with great efficiency.
Here's your room.
The beds are a bit hard, but it's good for the spine.
You can see the hospital from here,
and the lab is over there.
Dr. Souza Lima, these are our Argentinian volunteers, Mr. Granado,
Mr. Ernesto Guevara.
Alberto, I believe you have experience in the laboratory, right?
That's correct. I think he'll be able to help; why don't you show him the research lab?
Ernesto, you're going to help me at the hospital with consultations.
We transfer the seriously ill over here; we bring them in from the South side.
Hello, Doctor.
Do you also operate on this side?
Yes, we have an O.R. over there.
That's Elvia, she's the daughter of a patient; a very good nurse.
- How is he? Is he okay? - He's much better.
- Continue the same treatment then. - Okay.
Doctor, how many patients live on the South side?
- Almost six hundred. - All Peruvian?
No, most are, but we have some from Colombia,
Venezuela, and other South American countries.
I suggest you wear these gloves.
Altough leprosy is not contagious under streatment,
the nuns are quite insistent on this point.
If it's not contagious, then it's just symbolic, right?
Yes, I'm just telling you so you don't make any mortal enemies.
You know what, Doctor, you'll excuse us, but we're not going to wear them.
Thank you, Doctor.
- Don't say I didn't warn you. - Alright.
Get the boxes out. Right this way, boys.
- Good afternoon. - Good afternoon.
- Welcome to San Pablo.. - Thank you.
Pap¨¢ Carlito at your service.
Nemesio Reyna.
- I'm Ernesto Guevara. - I'm Alberto Granado, a pleasure to meet you.
Doctor, haven't you explained the rules?
- How are you, Nemesio? - Well.
Pap¨¢ Carlito is the community leader. They are Argentinian doctors.
Those guys are real gents.
Doctors, these gentlemen just show up and think they can do what they want?
Mother Sor Alberto, these gentlemen have medical experience in C¨®rdoba and Buenos Aires.
That doesn't give them the right to break the rules.
Why don't we talk about this later?
Thank you, Mother, you are very understanding.
Excuse us. She's the Mother Superior.
- I think she wants me. - I think she does.
This is the dining hall.
The nuns fix lunch here on Sundays.
But only for those who come to mass.
Most of the patients were sent here by their families
or fired from their jobs.
So they adapt to their new lives, by building their own houses...
farming and raising animals.
- How's Silvia? - She doesn't want the surgery.
Thank you.
Silvia is a somewhat rebellious patient.
Surgery is the last chance to save her arm.
Hello, Silvia.
She's young.
May I go talk to her?
Can I sit?
Does your arm hurt?
What's wrong?
I was born with shitty lungs.
Pity.
It's not so bad. Thanks to that, I got out of military service.
I didn't heve to clean anybody's boots.
Is that why you became a doctor,
because you're sick?
Maybe...
The first word I learned was injection.
I want to be useful, somehow.
- You're wasting your time. - Why?
Life is pain.
Yeah, it's pretty screwed up.
You gotta fight for every breath,
and tell death to go to hell.
Bresciani's going to write me a letter of recommendation for a residency
in Caracas at the Cabo Blanco Hospital. How's that sound?
- That's good, isn't it? - Good?
What's wrong, Fuser?
- Have you seen the river? - Of course.
It segregates the ill from the healthy.
Wipe.
Are you alright?
Scalpel.
It's alright. Look at me, look me in the eye. Are you alright?
The nerve is coming out, it's thick.
I have four siblings,
Celia, Ana Mar¨ªa, Roberto and Juan Mart¨ªn.
Honestly, they're what I miss most.
And also my Mom.
You have to let me know sooner.
- Have you been playing soccer lately? - Not lately.
I'd appreciate it if you wore sneakers next time,
- and don't forget to invite me. - My pleasure.
Alright Northerners!
Come on Northerners,
mark that one there!
Get out there!
Mark that one!
What happened, Chubby? We nailed you!
Fuck you!
Some rice... corn, onion.
Excuse me.
Sister, why won't you serve us, what's wrong?
Mother Sor Alberto's rules are very clear, food is served only to those who attend Holy Mass.
What?
They won't serve us because we didn't go to mass?
- Says who? - Sor Alberto.
- We'd like to eat, if possible. - We deserve to eat like everybody else.
- But you didn't go to mass. - No.
So, how do you expect to feed the body if you haven't first fed the soul?
Ma'am, it's unchristian to deny us food!
We have rules in this house, and they have to be followed.
I didn't see any rulebook.
Neither did I. I think if I find it, I'll eat it.
Your lunch.
- You stole it? - Yes.
- You stole it from Sor Alberto? - Yes.
- Deep? - Yeah.
Do you want mat¨¦?
No, thanks.
What?
- From Caracas? - Caracas.
This is great. Great, isn't it?
- Should I take it? - What do you wanna do?
Maybe it's time to settle down, huh?
Get a steady job, a girlfriend.
Grow a gut.
And you?
Are you going back to school, to Buenos Aires?
I don't know. If I find a way of getting back, yes.
You'll be twenty-four next week, Fuser.
I should be thinking ahead, huh?
He dances pretty well. Have you seen the nun?
Check this out.
- Come on, dance. - I can't dance.
Thank you. Very nice.
- Good party, huh? - Awesome!
Listen, it's the Tango you danced in Miramar.
- I like it. - Did you notice? You know how to dance this one.
- This one's a bit fast, isn't it? - You dance it perfectly,
and I think there's a young lady interested in dacing with you.
I should ask her, right?
The bird of youth flies away and doesn't come back. Fly, man fly!
Would you like to dance?
- Do you know this dance? - Yes.
This version is a bit faster than the one I know.
Mambo.
Let Ernesto dance!
- Did you think it was a Tango? - It's a Mambo, Fuser!
Make three wishes!
My dear friends, a moment, please.
I think it's the perfect time to let Ernesto and Alberto know...
how grateful we are to them.
Not only for having come here,
but also for the enthusiasm and dedication...
they have shown towards San Pablo's patients
during their three weeks with us.
To show our appreciation, we have a little surprise for you.
Tomorrow we're going to give you a raft so that you can continue your trip.
This raft will be named after tonight's newly invented dance:
the Mambo-Tango.
- Good one! - Thank you, Doctor!
Speech! Speech!
Well... it's my duty to thank you for this toast
with something more than the usual conventions.
But, in view of the shabby condition in which we travel,
all we have to offer you are words.
Employing them, I'd like to express my sincere thanks,
to the entire staff of the colony, who, although they barely know us,
have shown their affection by celebrating my birthday
as if it were an intimate celebration of one of their own.
Tomorrow we leave Per¨²,
so these words are also our farewell,
in which I'd like to remark how grateful I am
to the people of this country
who have generously looked after us again and again.
I'd like to add something else, completely unrelated to this toast...
Don't worry, I won't dance.
Even though we are too insignificant to be spokesmen
for such a noble cause,
we believe,
and this journey has only confirmed this beliefe,
that the division of America into unstable
and illusory nations is a complete fiction.
We are one single mestizo race
from Mexico to the Magellan Straits.
And also, in an attempt to free ourselves from narrow minded provincialism,
I propose a toast to Per¨²
and to a United America.
What... What's wrong?
Do you know where the boat is?
Nah, can't see it.
I'm going to celebrate my birthday on the other side.
Sure, tomorrow, when we find the boat you'll go across and celebrate.
My birthday is today, not tomorrow.
Yeah, I know, Fuser, but you're not going to...
You nuts? At night? The animals in there will eat you alive!
How many times did we think we wouldn't make it...?
- And look, here we are. - But this is different, Fuser. Because I won't be there to help you.
- I'm not going in there... - You're always gonna be with me, Mial.
Come here you little shit! Come here!
Your mother's gonna kill me! Fuser! Come here!
Ernesto, listen to me!
Ernesto, come back!
Fuck you! Ernesto, come back!
- Fuck, come back! - What's wrong?
The crazy idiot wants to swim across the river!
- Please tell me someone has already crossed this river. - In all the years I've been here, no one.
- Ernesto, come back here, damn it. - Son, listen to your friend!
- He won't listen - Come here, kid!
- What is it? - I don't know, something's going on.
- Ernesto! Do what I say for once in your life. - The current is even stronger now.
- What is he doing? - This idiot wants to swim across the river!
- Is that Ernesto? - Yes, he's swimming towards us...
- He's tired. - You can do it, Ernesto!
He's over there!
Go! Go! Go, Ernesto!
Come on!
He made it! The motherfucker made it!
I always knew he'd make it.
I always knew... Son-of-a-bitch.
- I'm going to miss you so much. - Take good care.
See you, Nemesio.
- Pap¨¢ Carlito is feeling real sad... - Take care of yourself.
Bye, Bin.
- We're gonna miss you. - Me too.
Thanks for everything.
- Don't forget us. Take good care of yourself. - You too, Silvia.
Thank you, thanks.
- Bye, Ernesto. - Take care.
Take good care of your family.
Take care of yourselves, you guys.
- Goodbye, Mauro. - Safe travels.
I'd prepared a speed full of anecdotes and grandiose phrases,
- I can't remember shit now. - That's how it goes.
- Che... - What?
It's not too late to come work with me in Capo Blanco.
You could come back after you graduate. I'll wait for you.
I don't know.
I just don't know.
You know, Mial, all this time we spent on the road,
something happened.
Something I'll have to think about for a long time.
So much injustice...
Come on, the plane's taking off!
- Well, I should go... - Wait, take this, it may help.
- You kept it? - It's yours.
- I'd better go. - Yes.
I'll write, okay?
Fuser!
I have something very important to tell you...
My birthday is not on April 2nd, it's on August 8th;
- I just said that to motivate us. - I know.
- You knew it? - Yeah.
- So long, Mial! - Bye, my friend.
This isn't a tale of heroic feats.
It's about two lives running parallel for a while,
with common aspirations and similar dreams.
Was our view too narrow, too biased, too hasty?
Were our conclusions too rigid?
Maybe.
Wandering around our America
has changed me more than I thought.
I'm not me anymore,
at least I'm not the same me I was.
It took eight years for Ernesto and Alberto to meet again.
In 1960 Granado was invited to live and work in Cuba.
The invitation came from his old friend Fuser, now "Comandante" Erneto Che Guevara,
one of the most prominent and inspiring leaders of the Cuban Revolution.
Che went on to fight for his ideals in the Congo and Bolivia where he was captured,
and with the support of the CIA, murdered in October, 1967.
Forever faithful to his friend Fuser,
Granado remained in Cuba where he founded the Santiago School of Medicine.
He lives in Havana with his wife Delia, their children and grandchildren.